Winter Driving Tours in Winterless Northland
A quick search of New Zealand driving tours reveals a feast for any traveller.
In the winter from June to August, heading south from Auckland gets colder the further you go, which is great if you want to ski in the North Island or South Island.
But for something different, try heading in the opposite direction to Northland.
This 400 km long pan-handled shaped region stretching up from the country’s largest city of Auckland is considered the birthplace of the country.
It was here that the founding document, The Treaty of Waitangi, was signed in 1840. It is also the first landing place of canoes, or Wakas, from East Polynesia and the site of early European settlements.
Northland is full of Maori and European history, stunning scenery, huge tracts of dense sub-tropical rainforest, breath-taking beaches, coves and headlands, and in winter, not a lot of people.
And if you want some action, adventure or sports, there’s some surprises like dune boogie boarding, and plenty of kayaking and fishing.
There’s also the best diving in New Zealand at Tutukaka and a world famous golf course at Kauri Cliffs, Matauri Bay.
In winter, Northland comes into its own when average temperatures are about 4-6c warmer than the Central North Island and South Island and there’s definitely no freezing over-night temperatures, frost or snow.
The climate allows sub-tropical rainforest to thrive, the largest being the Waipoua Forest, home to the largest Kauri tree in New Zealand, Tane Mahuta, or Lord of the Forest.
Sea temperatures are also relatively warm meaning surfing in Northland is realistic in the winter, as long as you wear a wetsuit.
A Northland driving tour could take anywhere from three to seven nights, and to have a good chance to explore we would recommend at least five. You could go for a lot longer as there’s so much to see and do!
And to take full advantage of what’s on offer from adventure to relaxation you might want to spend a little less on travelling by hiring a cheap rental car.
When planning your trip here are a few hints and tips about what to do along the way and if you need route maps and traffic advice visit AA Roadwatch:
Day 1: Auckland to Hokianga
Get an early start and travel north along State Highway 1 (SH1) to Warkworth and then Wellsford. You will find after 40 kms the motorway runs out and that’s the end of this type of road until you return.
Roads from now on are mostly single lane, often windy and watch out for single lane bridges.
New Zealand’s Historic Kauri Industry
Turn left on to SH12 toward Maungataroto and the Matakohe Kauri Museum. This is a fascinating introduction to the heritage and history of New Zealand’s pioneers through the lens of the kauri industry, a key economic activity in the years following European settlement.
You will come across the historical kauri industry everywhere in Northland, so it’s worth a visit. Driving to Matakohe will take about 1.75 hours.
The magnificent kauri trees of the Waipoua Forest
After you’ve soaked up the interactive displays and absorbed the past, head north to the Waipoua Forest, to see examples of these magnificent kauri trees, the most famous being Tane Mahuta.
This is another 100 kms north along SH 12 and along the way you’ll pass through the historic riverside town of Dargaville, a port with a logging history and a heyday still preserved in its buildings that now house cafes and arts and craft shops, including woodturning.
The Waipoua Forest is part of the largest tract of native bush left in Northland and it’s mystical by its peace and quiet.
Park the car and walk the short distance into the forest to see the majestic stands of kauri including: the Four Sisters, Te Matua Ngahere and Tane Mahuta.
After a busy day, head off to the Hokianga for the evening where there is a variety of accommodation choices centred on the towns of Omapere and Opononi.
And if you have time, stop at the lookout just before heading down to the harbour for a view of Niua, the massive sand dunes on the north shore, glowing in the evening sun.
Day 2: Hokianga to Kaitaia
The sleepy little settlement of Opononi achieved international renown 60 years ago when it was adopted by a friendly dolphin, nicknamed Opo that would appear daily and play with locals over a whole special summer. There’s even a commemorative statue.
Historic villages of Rawene and Kohukohu
Enjoy a morning stroll along the shoreline and then drive east to Rawene, a small historic town with quaint arts and craft shops overhanging the water’s edge.
You can read about its history at Clendon House, the fascinating home of Captain James Reddy Clendon, ship owner and trader, dating back to the 1870s. The entrance can be found just along the Esplanade from the Boat Shed Café.
Take the ferry across the harbour to Kohukohu, a village of century old architecture, once a kauri timber town boasting mills, a wharf and tall ships anchored in the harbour.
Then head up to New Zealand’s northernmost town of Kaitaia, a good base for exploring the Far North and Cape Reinga.
If you have time, visit the west coast seaside village of Ahipara, great for a blast outdoors from sand surfing down the dunes, blo-karting (a version of landyachting), horse riding on the beach, fishing, diving and of course the more usual surfing (on waves this time!)
Day 3. Ninety Mile beach and Cape Reinga, back to Mangonui
Kaitaia is the start and finish point of daily bus tours to Cape Reinga along the famous Ninety Mile Beach, ironically only 55 miles long, as long as it’s low tide.
Technically a highway, rental car companies don’t allow their vehicles to be driven on the sand for safety reasons. So the best way to see the northernmost point of New Zealand is to have a break from driving and take a bus tour.
Vast and wild, the virtually untouched north is blessed with stunning vistas across bays and headlands.
Cape Reinga is a culturally significant area for Maori as according to legend it is the departing place for spirits, making their final journey to their homeland, Hawaiki.
There’s a choice of bus tours from Kaitaia that last about seven hours leaving just after 9.00am and returning at 4.00pm. This gives you plenty of time at the end of the day to relax back in Kaitaia or why not drive the 40 kms north east to Mangonui for the night.
And be in time for dinner; the only reason is it’s home to some of the best fish and chips in the country at Mangonui Fish and Chips – they say, a visit to this quaint seaside town without stopping at this chippie is like going to the Louvre and bypassing the Mona Lisa!
Day 4 and 5. Waitangi, and stay in Paihia or Russell
First thing, take a stroll around Mangonui, a fishing village on the shores of Mangonui Harbour and Doubtless Bay.
Try walking the Mangonui Heritage Trail to discover the history of the area or head out to some of the bays and beaches to see the beauty.
The Bay of Islands – birthplace of the nation
May be after a lazy lunch at a local café drive the 80 kms to the Bay of Islands, the historic birthplace of the nation.
Along the way, why not stop for lunch in Kerikeri, a haven of arts and craft and home to New Zealand’s oldest building, the Stone Store.
You can easily use up a few hours here meandering along the Kerikeri Art and Craft Trail, finding vineyards or visiting the Makana Chocolate Factory. The town has a lazy but creative feel that has made it one of the most popular places to live in this part of New Zealand.
Paihia is a great place to explore all the Bay of Islands and the base for most of the excursions and adventures – be warned, there are more activities than can be fit into a couple of days!
If history is top of your agenda the first place to visit will be the Waitangi Treaty Grounds just north of Paihia.
It was here that the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed between the Maori chiefs and the British Crown.
The site of Waitangi is highly significant for all New Zealanders. The beautiful manicured grounds include the ornately carved meeting house, Te Whare Runanga, and the worlds’ largest ceremonial waka, or canoe.
Look across the water from Waitangi and you will see the historic coastal town of Russell in the distance, a short ferry ride from Paihia, and the first capital of New Zealand until 1840 when it was moved to Auckland.
This picturesque village in the bay has a colourful past as a popular stop for sailors, whalers and traders, with its many pubs and places of disrepute.
It was once known as the “hell hole of the South Pacific”, apparently very appropriate, or by Kororareka, a name that you will see when you visit. It’s more savoury now with peaceful foreshore cafes, restaurants and craft shops.
Walking in the Bay of Islands
Like anywhere on the New Zealand coast nature abounds in the Bay of Islands and while the sea is the main draw card, west of Paihia just 4kms inland is the unusual horse-shoe shaped and spectacular Haruru Falls – Haruru means “big noise”. You can drive or take the 90 minute tramp, or hike, from the Waitangi Treaty grounds along the edge of the Waitangi River.
There is also the Paihia to Opua Coastal Walk across bays and headlands, and where you will encounter vineyards, oyster farms and native birds.
This is a 6hr trip in total but because it’s along the coast you can do as much or as little as you want. And for a great view try the Flagstaff Loop Walk just north of Russell, a site of historic significance where the flagstaff flying the Queen’s flag was cut down many times in the 1840s in protest of the new colonial presence.
Adventure in the Bay of Islands
If you want adventure you’ll be enticed by a rich menu of fun.
Among the most famous is a Dolphin Cruise to the Hole in the Rock, a tour that will take you to the entrance of the Bay of Islands and Motukokako Island, where weather permitting the captain will steer through the narrow tunnel. You will see dolphins along the way too.
If adrenalin is what you are after, Paihia is also a good base for kayaking, jet skiing, diving and mountain biking.
Last day. Head south to Whangarei and back to Auckland
The drive south is as beautiful as the rest of Northland and there’s plenty to see along the way.
For something unusual, take a short detour to Kawakawa to see the world famous Hunterwasser Toilets – it sounds odd that a public toilet is an art work but it’s one of the many surprises you will find when travelling around New Zealand.
Stop off for lunch at the Whangarei Town Basin, pick up some cheese at the famous Kaiwaka Cheese Shop and for a last excursion visit the Warkworth Honey Centre for afternoon tea and of course, the chance to buy any flavour of honey you could possible ever think of.
The beauty about Northland is you can go as fast or slow as you like and you will still have a time full of surprises, beauty, adventures and relaxation.
The best way to travel is by car
Travelling by car is the best way to go as it gives the flexibility to go off the beaten track, when you want.
If you are on a limited budget, try a cheap car rental from a company like New Zealand Discount Car Rentals.
From its Auckland International Airport base, daily rates start at $14.95 for a short term rental and could be as low as $9.95 a day for a minimum of 40 days.
And with a large fleet of high quality vehicles from small hatchbacks to people movers you will find a car and rental period that suits your plans.
Remember we drive on the left side of the road. For hints and tips about driving in New Zealand visit our blog The Tiki Tour – your New Zealand road trip, or read the Drive Safe website, which has great videos and explanations about New Zealand’s roads and driving.
Enjoy your winter stay in the winterless north of New Zealand and please drive safely and have a great trip!