Step back in time for a winter escape
There’s a lot to be said for a mid-winter getaway. Just a few days in new surrounds can be invigorating and help banish any winter doldrums.
The Bay Of Islands in the upper North Island is a beautiful location, regardless of the weather and it has a fascinating history to uncover. Only three hours’ drive north of Auckland, it’s an easy journey to this year-round paradise.
The Bay of Islands Region
The area got its name when Captain James Cook first sailed into the picturesque harbour in 1769 and discovered its 140-odd subtropical islands.
The town of Russell went on to become the country’s first colonial capital and in the 19th century boomed as a whaling port.
Nowadays, it’s a holiday oasis known for its stunning beaches, fishing, diving, fresh local produce and artisan cuisine. However, the area’s cultural significance and role in New Zealand’s history is an equally important drawcard for overseas tourists and New Zealanders alike.
Exploring the Bay of Islands
Within the Bay of Islands region there are four main towns to explore. Having your own wheels is definitely a plus, as it’ll give you far more freedom to enjoy what the area has to offer and flexibility to allow quick changes of plans if the weather doesn’t play its part!
Paihia – gateway to the Bay of Islands
Paihia is the gateway to the region’s many bays and islands and is a great base from which to explore. On Paihia’s beachfront activities range from sea cruises, dolphin watching, and tall ship sailing to diving, kayaking and deep-sea fishing.
Popular sea excursions to the “Hole in the Rock” are run by several different tour operators in the Bay of Islands.
The trip takes visitors out to the remote Piercy Island (or Motu Kōkako) at the northern tip of Cape Brett. It is a most significant island in conservation terms, a near pristine environment with around 99 different types of flora, undisturbed by any introduced animals.
The 60-foot (18m) hole in the rock was created by centuries of waves and wind pummeling the island at sea-level, and makes for a spectacular sight. If sea, tide and wind conditions are just right many jet boat tours can take visitors right through the hole.
There’s some beautiful bush walks around Paihia too.
The Paihia-Waitangi walk (45m-60m 1 way) is just one of these, and gives a good introduction to the coastline, following the swerve of Paihia’s most popular beach, Te Ti, along to the cliff top of the Waitangi Trust Grounds. Views across the Bay to Russell, Tapeka point and the beach below offer some great photo opportunities.
Heading south of Paihia, the small town of Opua marks the start (or end) of the Twin Coast Cycle Track which, when complete, will run from Opua to the Hokianga Harbour on the West Coast.
The trail from Opua heading towards Kawakawa (home to the famous Hundertwasser toilets – definitely worth a view!) follows the old rail line, and as it heads out of Opua offers sweeping views across the harbour and marina. The ride is flat and easy and takes you through tunnels, over bridges, farmland and lake/riverside. Weather permitting it’s also a perfect activity for families.
While these are just some highlights, there’s more to Paihia than the great outdoors, and winter sees some lively events planned for the town.
Paihia’s main street closes for music, entertainment, food and wine at the Mid-Winter Street Party on 9th July, the Bay of Islands Jazz and Blues Festival takes centre stage on 12-14 August, and on the first of October the ‘IT’ Bay of Islands Food and Wine Festival showcases the region’s best.
Waitangi – where it all started
Just up the road from Paihia, is Waitangi, one of New Zealand’s most historic sites.
Here, in 1840, over 500 Maori chiefs and representatives of the British Crown signed the Treaty of Waitangi, widely considered New Zealand’s founding document.
A visit to Waitangi is well worth it. The vast estate houses the Museum of Waitangi, the Treaty House, Te Whare Runanga (the carved meeting house), Ngatokimatawhaorua (the ceremonial war canoe) and the flagstaff, as well as bushwalks rich in native flora and fauna and views across the harbour. A day pass includes an informative guided tour and rousing cultural performance.
From Waitangi runs a 6km sheltered walk along the river to Haruru Falls, which was New Zealand’s first river port and an aramoana (sea road) for the inland Maori tribes. Haruru Falls is also home to the country’s first recorded road (Cherry Tree Lane) and the site where travellers were first recorded to “boil the billy”, travelling with an iron pot, tea and sugar.
Russell – from hell-hole to historic haven
Russell is a short ferry ride across the bay from Paihia. Now tranquil and picturesque, this sea-side village was once a major hub of the 1800s whaling industry.
Once known as “the hell-hole of the pacific”, it was a heaving, riotous and bawdy destination for sailors, whalers and traders.
But nowadays Russell is peaceful and has some of New Zealand’s oldest and most historic buildings. The town’s original street plan and street names are still intact.
Of particular note is Christ Church, New Zealand’s oldest church built in 1835, Pompallier Mission (1841) and the Old Customs House (1870). The Gables, built in 1847, is another local icon. In its time it has been a bordello, bakery, shop, home for boys and hiding place for wayward sailors.
Russell is also home to the infamous Flagstaff Hill, where Hone Heke, one of the fiercest Maori chiefs of the Northern tribe Ngapuhi, demonstrated his disillusionment with the British Government and ordered the flagpole to be chopped down, not once, but three times, before the Northern Wars eventually erupted.
Russell Museum chronicles much of the Maori and European history of the area and holds some unique collections, including a stunning 1:5 scale replica of Captain Cook’s ship, the Endeavour.
To hear local voices telling more tales of Russell’s colourful history, it’s worthwhile downloading the HikoiTahi walking tour app and either listening to it before your trip or as you go.
Kerikeri
Kerikeri is a character-filled town, bursting with seasonal produce, artisan offerings and plenty of galleries, cafes, art and culture.
Kerikeri Basin is where the local Maori first welcomed European settlement in 1819. At the Kerikeri Mission Station there’s New Zealand’s oldest surviving home, Kemp House, built in 1821, and the Stone Store, the country’s earliest trading post built 1832.
Nearby Rewas Village offers interesting insights into pre-European Maori way of life. The full-scale replica of a Maori fishing village is named after Rewa, another powerful chief of the Northern tribes in the 1800s.
At the Old Packhouse Market (every Saturday 8 – 1:30), you can sample some of the town’s culinary delights, great coffee, breads, pastries and more, while enjoying local music and art – it’s worthwhile stockpiling some picnic supplies before heading to the Puketi Kauri Rainforest to gaze upon the giant Kauri trees towering overhead.
New Zealand’s native Kauri has a fascinating history – it was the attraction for many early pioneers to the region, with fierce competition for its prized gum.
After periods of mass felling for its valued hardwood, now the focus is on preservation and protection.
Just 20 minutes out of town, many of the parks’ tracks are all-weather and can cater for all levels and abilities – from the wheelchair accessible Kauri Boardwalk to a few 2-day walks for the more seasoned tramper. Giant Kauri Trees tower over walkers in the subtropical Bay of Islands
Accommodation
Accommodation in Paihia is plentiful and for a small town there’s an excellent array of backpackers, which all receive positive reviews.
There’s also mid-range motels/units and several stylish waterfront apartment complexes, which also have had favourable feedback on Trip Advisor.
For a more upmarket feel, you could try the luxurious Copthorne near Waitangi.
If you’re looking for accommodation in keeping with the region’s history and character, try The Duke Of Marlborough in Russell. “The Duke” as it’s locally known, has been “refreshing rascals and reprobates” since 1827, and holds the honour of being New Zealand’s first licensed pub.
Kerikeri accommodation tends to be more boutique B&Bs or lodge style, with good options for campervans and caravans, such as the Kerikeri Park Motel.
While it’s been coined the “winter-less north”, this may be somewhat overly optimistic.
On some days you will need to be prepared for typical winter rain, cold and wind – but there are those occasions when the winter sun packs a punch that’ll see you stripping off the thermals and enjoying the warm rays (you might have heard the Crowded House song “Four Seasons in one Day”).
With a bit of luck, the Bay of Islands’ charm, character and captivating history will have you so enthralled, you won’t even notice the weather, whatever its doing!