The Tongariro Crossing – A Great Great Walk
Visitors to New Zealand are spoilt for choice when it comes to hiking, or tramping as we like to call it. There’s no shortage of walks rich in scenery, native fauna and history, and there are nine official New Zealand Great Walks. Deciding on which to tackle can be hard.
As far as day treks go, The Tongariro Alpine Crossing can’t be beaten. Voted one of the world’s top 10 day treks, it lies in New Zealand’s oldest National Park, in the central North Island, about six hours drive from Auckland.
Here you’ll find weird and wonderful landscapes, volcanoes, crazy rock formations, steaming vents, jewel-coloured lakes, ancient lava flows, scalding thermal springs and moon-like craters.
On a clear day you will feel like you’re in a different world with views including Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Taranaki, the vast expanse of Lake Taupo and the Kaimanawa Ranges. You’ll be amazed in each direction.
A bit of background…
Tongariro National Park is a dual World Heritage Site – on first account for its outstanding natural features and secondly for its cultural significance to the local indigenous Maori.
The land mass was formed by many eruptions, from at least six different cones, starting 275,000 years ago and continuing for another 200,000 years until the Ice Age.
Mt Ngauruhoe, the youngest volcano, was formed 2,500 years ago and is the most active vent in the region. It last erupted properly in 1975 but let off steam in 2012, enough to close the track for four days.
In 1995, Mount Ruapehu made international headlines when it erupted as people skied its slopes.
The area also hit the silver screen in 2000 appearing as a backdrop to The Lord of the Rings trilogies and then later in 2011/12 in The Hobbit.
Be prepared and don’t screw it up!
The Tongariro Crossing is both an awe-inspiring and serious tramp – at 19.4 km long you can expect it to take a good 7-9 hours, depending on your fitness, the weather and how many stops you take for once in a lifetime photos.
But despite all the advice and warnings The Tongariro Crossing is renowned for its legions of ill prepared, jandal-wearing, t-shirted day trippers, with little water or training, who think it will be a “walk in the park.”
It is an alpine crossing that is almost 2000m above sea level, at its peak, that deserves full respect.
Countless people who have completed it can testify that it’s beauty can hide an ugly side if the weather turns.
Ok, that said, what do you need to take?
This will depend on the weather, the season and your plan – that is, are you only going to walk the track, or take in excursions like climbing Mount Ngauruhoe?
The area is known for its rapidly changeable weather, wind chill factor and poor visibility in sudden storms.
The route is marked with poles but it’s common for visibility to drop. So don’t start out if the weather’s bad – you’ll find yourself crawling the Red Crater Ridge, hanging on by your finger nails!
Always check Metservice (www.metservice.com/mountain/tongariro-national-park) for weather updates – Tongariro National Park has it’s own page.
The managers at your accommodation will also be valuable sources of advice and information, and could tell you a few stories!
Food and water:
- Two litres of water minimum, more when the weather is hot – there’s no water on the track
- Packed lunch and snacks (high energy ones are good like a bag of GORP – “good old raisins and peanuts” also known as Scroggin or Trail Mix)
Clothing for different conditions:
- Polyprop thermals and wool layers (advisable to always take these)
- Warm hat and gloves
- Rain jacket and overpants
- Sturdy footwear (we’d always recommend walking boots but robust trainers with good grip are also ok in summer and when the weather is good)
Sun protection – be SunSmart, our New Zealand sun is strong and can burn even when it’s cloudy!
- Hi-factor sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses
Other:
- Small back pack to carry all the stuff above!
- Map, phone and camera
Now you’re prepared, here’s more about the trek
Most people will start from the Western end of the walk in the Mangatepopo Valley, at the car park, about 20 kms from the small tourism town of National Park.
From here the track makes its way up to Soda Springs (so called for its effervescent spring water charged with dissolved gas), and then on to the South Crater via the “Devil’s Staircase”, the first of the big climbs, which lives up to its name!
The South Crater to Red Crater, the highest point in the track at 1886m, is a moderately difficult climb with spectacular views, although when the wind gets up it can be a little hairy.
Just before the Red Crater, the Tongariro summit route heads left, while the main track continues around the crater’s rim.
Coming down from Red Crater is steep, with loose scoria underfoot – walking poles can be useful.
To the right of the path you’ll see (and smell!) the Emerald Lakes – their brilliant colour caused by minerals leaching from the surrounding rocks. It might look inviting but it’s not suitable for swimming, which can be very disappointing on a hot day!
One of the trek’s highlights follows – Blue Lake, a stunning 16m deep freshwater body of water, regarded as ‘Tapu” or sacred. By all means soak up the view, take photos, but respect the area by not eating or swimming.
For the next hour from Blue Lake onwards to Ketetahi Hut, the scenery changes with breathtaking views over Mount Pihanga, Lake Rotorua and Lake Taupo. Stick to the track to take care of the easily eroded surrounds, which can be boggy underfoot anyway.
The final stretch of the trek takes you through a Totara forest, scrub and a worthwhile diversion down to a waterfall a few minutes before finishing at the Ketetahi carpark.
Should I take a guide?
If you’re planning a winter excursion, then yes, a guide is recommended, unless you’re a very experienced climber – you should expect snow, strong winds and ice. There are plenty of Tongariro guides in the area.
If it’s summer and the weather is settled, it’s really up to you if you choose to use a guide. While it might not be absolutely necessary a guide will be able to tell you about everything you will see along the way, including the history and geology.
It sounds pretty tough – how much training do I actually need to do?
You will be walking for 7-8 hours, including two challenging 1-hour climbs and carrying a backpack – at least moderate fitness is required.
In order to really enjoy this trek you will have done at least some walking training up and down hills in the weeks beforehand.
While age is no barrier, fitness and experience do count. Expect to be challenged and have your legs turn to jelly on the descent (remember more hiking injuries happen going down than going up), so take care. But the rewards are guaranteed to outweigh any discomfort.
And a big night out before is not a good idea – leave the celebrating to the end and there are plenty of bars and restaurants who will be more than happy to help!
To summit or not to summit?
There are two summits that may tempt you, both accessed from the main track.
The first, Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings), is an arduous two hour ascent that you should only attempt in summer, unless you are very experienced in snow and part of a well-equipped group. It’s arduous because it’s scree, meaning with every step up, you still slide back down a little.
To get to Ngauruhoe, follow the track up from Mangatepopo Valley to the saddle, where a sign-posted route will lead you to the foot of the mountain. Once there, you make your own way up; there’s only one summit and it’s cone shaped!
Even in summer the conditions can be bitter, and you need to watch for boulders hurtling their way down.
The summit is awe-inspiring and at 2287m you’ll really feel on top of the world. A Mount Ngauruhoe descent can be quick as you slide down the scree – it’s a lot of fun but it’s easy to lose control.
One good piece of advice is to wear gaiters to stop stones getting in your boots.
The second summit is Mount Tongariro, and this will add another 1 ½ – 2 hours onto to your hike.
It is tamer and in pleasant weather a good diversion, with fantastic views of Mount Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. However, be warned this path follows a sharp ridge and can be numbingly raw and exposed in poor conditions.
When to go
Unless you’re an experienced climber, well-versed in crampons and ice axes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing really is a fair-weather trail – December to March is the best time.
Around Christmas and Easter the crossing can have up to 1000 visitors a day so it can become quite a social occasion. If you don’t want plenty of company best avoid these peak times or indeed walk the track in the other direction. This requires more climbing so allow an extra hour.
How do I get there?
There are a whole host of shuttle services that will drop you off at the Mangatepopo Valley, where most visitors start their trek, and pick you up at the end, at the Ketetahi carpark.
Shuttles operate from Whakapapa Village, National Park Village, Ohakune and Taumarunui, and start early. Taking a shuttle is a good idea because it means you can leave your car safely where you are staying and you don’t need to drive when you’re very tired at the end of the day.
It’s also a good idea to get an early start especially if you are tackling Mount Ngauruhoe or Tongariro. Be sure to book your transport well in advance.
Where should I stay?
National Park Village is located near the base of Ruapehu, bordering Tongariro National Park, and is geared up for year round tourism. It has plenty of accommodation, restaurants and bars.
Other options are Whakapapa Village, Ohakune or Taumarunui, which also offer everything from backpackers to apartments, motels, hotels and B&Bs.
And once I’ve done the crossing what else should I see in the area?
There’s no shortage of options here.
If you need to relax after your efforts on the trek try Tokaanu thermal pools in Turangi.
Less energetic adventure includes fly fishing the Tongariro River or taking in the view from above on a scenic flight.
Kayaking down the Whanganui River is another amazing adventure and oddly also considered a Great Walk!
Mountain biking, skiing, snowboarding and horse treks are also options if you have any energy left!
For more information see:
The Tongariro Crossing is a real adventure so if it’s on your list, plan early, pick your weather, get some training and go prepared.
With its remote location getting there by car is the easiest option. Remember we drive on the left, Drivesafe and have fun.